Nestled between two hills at the base of Mount Zerhoun in northern Morocco lies Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, a city of profound spiritual significance. With its whitewashed houses cascading down hillsides and green rooftops shimmering under the sun, this sacred town is the birthplace of Morocco’s first Islamic dynasty. Revered as one of the country’s most important pilgrimage sites, a journey to Moulay Idriss offers a glimpse into Morocco’s religious heritage, architectural beauty, and the origins of its statehood.
The Sacred Origins
Moulay Idriss Zerhoun takes its name and sacred status from Idris I, known as Moulay Idriss el Akhbar. Idris I was a direct descendant of Prophet Muhammad through his daughter Fatima and her husband Ali. As the great-grandchild of Hasan, Muhammad’s grandson, Idris I carried the prestigious Hasanid lineage. This lineage played a crucial role in gaining acceptance among North Africa’s Berber tribes.
In 786 CE, Idris I fled the Arabian Peninsula after the failed Alid uprising against the Abbasid caliphate. The rebellion ended tragically with the defeat at the Battle of Fakhkh, where his brothers were killed or persecuted by Caliph Harun al-Rashid. Idris, having participated in the revolt, became a fugitive.
Disguised as a servant in tattered clothes, Idris began his dramatic escape from Medina. Rashid, his loyal companion, helped him join returning pilgrims traveling from Mecca to Egypt. In Egypt, Idris sought help from Ouadih, a sympathetic postal official. Ouadih disguised him as a mail convoy employee, a role exempt from scrutiny due to their loyalty to the caliph.
From Egypt, Idris continued his journey to Kairouan in present-day Tunisia. He then traveled westward through Tlemcen, Algeria, and finally reached Tangier in northern Morocco. His path ultimately led him to Volubilis (Oualili), an ancient Roman city. There, he was warmly received by Ishaq ibn Muhammad, the Berber leader of the Awraba tribe.
Founding a Dynasty and a Nation
In 789 CE, Idris I gained the support of local Berber tribes, particularly the Awraba. He established himself as both a religious and political leader in the region. Idris I is credited with founding the Idrisid dynasty, Morocco’s fourth Muslim state after Nekor, Barghawata, and Midrar.
To solidify his position, Idris I married Kenza al-Awrabiya from the Awraba tribe. This alliance strengthened his ties with the local population. During his three-year rule from 788 to 791, he spread Islam across northern Morocco and laid the foundation for the country’s first Arab-Muslim dynasty.
His arrival signified more than religious conversion—it marked the birth of Moroccan statehood. The Berber tribes’ allegiance to Idris was a pivotal moment, establishing Morocco’s first independent Islamic state.
Under his leadership, Idris expanded control over northern Morocco, including Tlemcen, and initiated the founding of Fez. Fez later became a center of Islamic learning and culture. However, his growing influence alarmed Abbasid caliph Harun al-Rashid, who viewed him as a threat to Abbasid authority.
A Legacy Cut Short
The reign of Idris I ended abruptly in 791 CE. The Abbasid caliph, unable to send an army from Iraq to Morocco, resorted to assassination. An assassin poisoned Idris, likely using perfumed oil. He died at 47, leaving his wife Kenza seven months pregnant with their son, Idris II.
Idris I was buried on a hill near Volubilis, at the site that later became Moulay Idriss Zerhoun. After his death, his loyal companion Rashid served as the guardian and regent for Idris II. Idris II, born posthumously, eventually continued his father’s mission. In 808 CE, he officially established Fez as Morocco’s intellectual and religious center.
The Holy City Takes Shape
The early history of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun as a settlement remains unclear. However, a mausoleum for Idris I has existed here since his death. The town grew around this sacred tomb, while the old Roman settlement of Volubilis was gradually abandoned. Moulay Idriss offered a more defensible hillside location compared to Volubilis.
Although the town became an early pilgrimage site, Fez later overshadowed it. Under Idris II, Fez emerged as the most important city in the region. The veneration of the Idrisid founders as Muslim saints fluctuated over Morocco’s history. It declined significantly after the Idrisid influence ended in the 10th century.
The Marinid period in the 14th century revived the celebration of the Idrisids. In 1318, locals allegedly rediscovered Idris I’s remains, causing a sensation and drawing Marinid attention. This period also saw the establishment of the annual moussem (religious festival) in August to honor Moulay Idris I.
The Sacred Mausoleum
The mausoleum of Moulay Idriss underwent several major transformations over its history. The most dramatic change occurred during the reign of Alaouite sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727). He ordered the demolition of the existing mausoleum and its reconstruction on a grander scale. Construction lasted from 1719 to 1721, and Moulay Ismail established it as the city’s main Friday mosque by decreeing the khutba (Friday sermon) be performed there regularly.
In 1822, Sultan Moulay Abderrahman expanded the mosque further by purchasing adjacent property and rebuilding it on a larger scale. Sultan Sidi Mohammed (1859-1873) later commissioned exquisite ceramic tilework, crafted by Ibn Makhlouf, a master artisan from Meknes.
After Morocco gained independence in 1956, King Mohammed V and his son Hassan II redecorated the mausoleum. They also expanded the mosque once more, elevating its status as a national shrine.
Pilgrimage and Religious Significance
The tomb of Moulay Idriss I remains a key pilgrimage destination in Morocco. Popular belief holds that Moroccans unable to afford the Hajj to Mecca can substitute it by making six pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss during the annual festival.
The annual moussem in August attracts thousands of pilgrims from Morocco and beyond. A special ceremony during the festival replaces the gold-embroidered covering over Idris’s tomb. Religious and political figures attend this significant event.
Moulay Idriss Zerhoun’s sacred status restricted access to non-Muslims until 1912. Non-Muslims were also prohibited from staying overnight until 2005. These restrictions highlight the city’s profound religious importance to Moroccan Muslims.
Architectural Distinctions
The cityscape of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun stands out with white houses cascading down two hillsides. This picturesque panorama is visible from miles away, including the nearby ruins of Volubilis.
Among its architectural gems is the Sentissi Mosque, built in 1939. It features Morocco’s only cylindrical minaret, covered in green tiles, making it a unique and defining landmark of the town.
The mausoleum complex, while closed to non-Muslims, offers glimpses of its stunning interior through the entrance. Visitors can admire the ornate tilework, carved plaster, wooden arches, and the central courtyard, all showcasing exceptional craftsmanship dedicated to this sacred site.
Cultural Heritage and Modern Significance
Today, Moulay Idriss Zerhoun stands as a testament to Morocco’s religious and cultural heritage. Since 1995, it has been on UNESCO’s Tentative list of World Heritage Sites, recognizing its historical and cultural significance.
The town continues to balance its role as both a sacred religious site and an increasingly popular destination for cultural tourism. Visitors can wander its winding streets, admire panoramic views from various vantage points, and experience the unique atmosphere of a place where history, religion, and daily life intersect seamlessly.
For Moroccans, Moulay Idriss represents much more than a historical site—it embodies the very foundations of their national identity and religious heritage. The tomb of Idris I serves as a tangible connection to the origins of Moroccan statehood and the spread of Islam throughout North Africa.
A journey to Moulay Idriss Zerhoun offers visitors a glimpse into the soul of Morocco—a nation whose religious devotion, cultural richness, and historical depth continue to inspire and captivate all who encounter this remarkable holy city.
Conclusion
In conclusion, Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is more than just a city—it is a living embodiment of Morocco’s rich history, spiritual vitality, and cultural identity. Visiting this sacred site offers a profound journey through the country’s foundational moments, from the arrival of Idris I to the establishment of the Idrisid dynasty and the spread of Islam.
As visitors meander through its winding streets and admire its architectural beauty, they are not merely seeing a historical site—they are connecting with the heartbeat of Moroccan culture and spirituality. Beyond its role as a pilgrimage site, the city stands as a symbol of national unity and the enduring legacy of Idris I.
For those intrigued by history, architecture, or the essence of Moroccan culture, Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is a must-visit destination. It is a place where the past and present converge, where tradition meets modernity, and where the spiritual and secular blend seamlessly. Whether drawn by its historical significance, architectural splendor, or spiritual allure, a journey to Moulay Idriss Zerhoun promises to be deeply enriching and unforgettable.
Explore more about Morocco’s hidden gems in our blog post Morocco’s 7 Hidden Historical Gems Most Tourists Never See. Learn about the nearby Roman ruins in Volubilis: Morocco’s Roman Secret the Guidebooks Miss. Discover more about us at She&Elle of Morocco, or dive into Morocco’s cultural highlights in Why Morocco is Famous: 7 Must-Know Facts and Discover the Red City’s Secrets: A Guide to Marrakech’s Hidden Treasures.
